Dear friends,
This weekend I finally went to Kyiv, the historic center of Orthodox Rus lands. Tis a wonderfully liveable, pleasant "little" city of 4+ million. I kept fighting off the thought - this is what Moscow is supposed to be like - but to little avail. The pace is quieter, the people more outwardly friendly, it less overwhelmingly suffused with power, money and the pursuit and display of both. Sure, it has its corrupt politicians, its obnoxious Кофе Хаусы, it's muscle-pumped bald guys and failing infrastructure. But it also has commanding views of the Dniepr, the true center of Orthodox spirituality at the Monastery of the Caves, lots of tree-lined streets, and acres upon acres of historic buildings preserved with taste or left to pleasantly convalesce, reminiscent of gloomy, friendly Krakow. Sure, people want to leave Kyiv for the west, but not as in such striking numbers as in Moscow. People are proud of their city and proud of its gentle calm and sense of self. In this way it reminded me of St. Petersburg - but with better weather and topography.
These photos are all at the Monastery of the Caves. Sorry, didn't feel like breaking the rules to snap photos inside the actual cave, where you wander in passageways with a candle, with people huddling and praying over tiny sarcophagi. You'll have to use your imagination there.
And so, enjoy.
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